U Salognu: A Sunny Place In Corsica
During our recent trip to Corsica, we chanced upon U Salognu -- "the sunny place," in Corsican -- as we do many of our happiest discoveries: by following a roadside sign. "Traditional Corsican cuisine," the sign promised from a grassy shoulder off the road that leads from Cargese to Piana. We hadn't had lunch yet, the hour was creeping dangerously into mid-afternoon territory, and we pulled over hopefully. It was an old sheep pen made of stone, like there are thousands of abandoned ones across the island, but this one had been restored and turned into a tiny restaurant: six tables inside, and maybe twice more on a terrace outside, overlooking a deep, untouched valley with a waterfall in the far distance. On the door, another sign announced, "Our menu is composed of ingredients from local. . .